Two Brothers Landscaping LLC is family owned and operated, providing commercial and residential lawn and landscaping solutions to the greater Raleigh Durham Triangle area. Based out of Southern Wake County, our service area includes Raleigh,Cary, Morrisville, Apex, Holly Springs, Fuquay Varina and Willow Springs.

Friday, July 24, 2015

Seeding versus Sodding

When rehabilitating your entire lawn follow these steps: 1. Choose whether you will like to go with a warm season grass or a cool season grass. COOL SEASON GRASSES (such as Perennial Rye and Fescue): Must seed or sod in the FALL. WARM SEASON GRASSES (such as Bermuda, Centipede, Zoysia): Must seed or sod in the SUMMER months only. Centipede and Zoysia do not have a high rate of growing success in the State of NC. You should sod instead. 2. Educate yourself about each type of grass and their watering needs. Whether you choose a cool season grass or a warm season grass, they both require watering. However, cool season grasses tend to be more high maintenance and they require over-seeding every fall. Warm season grasses do not require as much watering and, unlike cool season grasses, they self-seed. They are creepers and there is no need to over-seed every fall. However, if you are trying to establish a Bermuda lawn from seed, you should seed three seasons (summers) in a row, in order to establish a full lush green lawn. When sodding, there is no need to over-seed. 3. If you are going to invest the money and the time in seeding or sodding your lawn, you must do it right the first time and protect your investment: • Treat existing weeds throughout the lawn; wait 7 to 10 days before proceeding with the following steps: • Amend the clay foundation with soil high in organic matter (50/50 compost) and till it in. • Rake out any chunks or unwanted vegetation. • Spread seed and starter fertilizer. • Top dress seed with more top soil. Avoid using wheat straw if you can. It has a tendency to bring in various weeds. • Water the lawn on a daily basis for the next 3 to 4 weeks in order to see results. • Do not mow the lawn, until seed is fully germinated or sod has rooted. • Follow an annual plan of pre and post emergent weed control applications, fertilization, adequate watering and basic lawn care to prevent your lawn from wilting and wind-blown weed seeds taking root in the lawn and thriving in the summer heat. Your lawn will revert to its former state in the absence of such a plan.

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

Pre emergent vs Post emergent herbicides

As the name suggests, pre-emergent herbicides must be applied before weeds emerge to have any real effect, since they work by preventing weed seeds from germinating in the first place. If you wait until after the weeds emerge, the herbicide won't have any effect and you are defeating the purpose of it altogether. 

Timing is critical. A common misconception about the ideal time for pre-emergent herbicides is that application should coincide with certain events, such as daffodils or forsythias in bloom. In nearly every area of the country, the weeds will have already emerged by that time.  Pre emergents are usually applied around Feb 14th and the following two to three weeks.  

If you missed the window of opportunity for applying a pre-emergent herbicide, you can apply a post-emergent product. Post-emergents work by destroying already established weeds. However, take care when applying post-emergent herbicides. Some are selective, meaning they target specific weeds, while others are nonselective, which means they destroy anything and everything it comes in contact with.  Therefore read the product label.

Keep in mind that you'll never get rid of all the weeds in your lawn. The wind will blow weed seeds from nearby lawns into your lawn, birds will deposit them and kids running from one lawn to the next will transport weed seeds on their shoes. So do what you feel you must to battle the weeds in your lawn, but do it wisely.  Raise the height of your mower to help prevent weed seeds from germinating in the first place and fertilize as needed with a natural product to promote vigorous grass.

If you'll like to read up more about the subject visit the following link
http://www.hgtv.com/design/outdoor-design/landscaping-and-hardscaping/when-to-apply-herbicides

Tuesday, July 29, 2014

Why sharpened blades are important when it comes to mowing

Lawn mowing is made so much easier when you remember to sharpen the blades of your lawn mower regularly.  There are several reasons having sharp blades is important, but the main reason is to keep your lawn looking good.  You can definitely tell that it’s time to sharpen those blades because your lawn will start looking very dull or having a whitish tinge to it right after you mow.  This is an indication that each blade of grass is being torn off rather than cut.  When you think about cutting the lawn, just remind yourself that lawn mowing should be about cutting rather than ripping.
Ripping your lawn up is not good for how the turf looks, and it’s not good for the general overall well-being of your lawn either.  After all, lawn mowing should be about not just making sure that the grass doesn’t overrun your house, but also keeping your entire yard manicured and looking great throughout the lawn mowing season.
Aside from ripped or torn grass, you run into several other problems if you continue your lawn mowing with dull blades.  Think of dull blades as actually lowing your lawn’s immune system.  Suddenly, just by mowing the lawn, you’ve made your grass is susceptible to the following diseases:
  • Insects
  • Heat problems
  • Diseases
  • Chemical burn
By mowing with dull blades, you’ve made it extremely difficult for your grass to defend itself against these issues.  You also spend more on your water bill because you will have to water the grass a lot more often or risk having to replant it altogether.  Grass is actually more delicate than it looks, and it’s up to you to take care of it.  Lawn mowing also requires sharp blades just for the simple fact that you’ll use less gasoline in your mower by mowing with sharp blades.  This is because sharp blades will cut right through the grass without facing resistance from it like dull blades do.

So remember to sharpen your blades often!!!!

Monday, May 12, 2014

Warm Season Grasses

Warm-season grasses are green in the summer and become brown and dormant in the winter. This group includes common and hybrid bermuda, centipede, zoysia. Warm-season grasses are adapted to the sandy soils of the North Carolina coastal plain and most of the piedmont. Warm-season grasses tolerate the high temperatures and summer droughts in North Carolina better than cool-season grasses.  

Best Time to Plant
    March through July is the best time to plant sprigs or lay sod.March through September is the best time to plant seed.Roots of warm-season grasses must have enough time to become established before the weather turns cool.
Seeding Rates  (when starting from seed not sod) 
    Seeding rates vary from 0.25 to 2.0 pounds per 1000 square feet.
     
Maintaining Warm Season Grasses

    Warm-season grasses can develop a thatch layer. When the thatch layer is half an inch thick, the lawn should be dethatched or raked. If the lawn becomes compacted, the soil can be aerated in the spring with a device that cuts and removes soil cores. Begin mowing the grass as soon as it is tall enough to be cut. A reel mower is preferred for cutting zoysia, hybrid bermuda and centipede. The suggested cutting height is 1 inch. It is not necessary to collect the clippings unless the amount is excessive and may smother the grass.

Sunday, August 22, 2010

September "To-Do" Checklist:

With the weather change from summer to fall, September is the best time to repair and enhance your lawn, trees & shrubs.  Here is a "to-do" checklist below.

Call Two Brothers Landscaping (919) 600-1834 to schedule your Fall checklist NOW!

Aeration breaks up your lawn's soil compaction
  • Fertilization: Lawns & plants require 16 nutrients for proper growth. Two Brothers can provide your lawn and plants a regional-specific fertilization mixture, OR we can perform a Soil/pH test (test results by NCSU College of Horticulture).  This test enables Two Brothers to provide your lawn & plants the specific nutrients they need.
  • Aeration & Over-Seeding: Aeration breaks up your lawn's root compaction to help moisture & fertilizer gain access to the root zone. In conjunction with Aeration, we over-seed to boost your lawn's growth potential during the Fall growing season. Aeration also reduces thatch, reduces water runoff and improves heat and drought tolerance.
  • Lawn Repair (Sod Propagation, Drainage & Grading): September is the perfect time to "re-do" your lawn/grass, correct drainage issues, re-grade problem run-off areas, replace or redesign runoff drains. If you're considering re-doing your grass, call Two Brothers Landscaping TODAY to lock-in the best prices per-pallet and installation.
  • Sod arrives in pallets
  • Weed, Pest & Disease Control: Two Brothers Landscaping is licensed & certified for weed & pesticide application.  We participate in IPM (Integrated Pest Management), and promote the use of organic chemicals.  We spray for all weed types (broadleaf, rush, sedge, or weed grasses).  Take advantage of the Fall season to correct any issues that have cropped up thus far this year.